Woven Together by Nature: Untouched World's NZFW Debut

As New Zealand Fashion Week makes its debut in a new venue following a pause, another name in the fashion industry makes a similar debut. Untouched World, beloved heritage brand, graced the stage of Studio 10 on Thursday afternoon, showcasing its upcoming spring/summer 2025 collection: Woven Together by Nature. The occasion is the culmination of 30 years of standing as a brand, both within Aotearoa and internationally, worn by the likes of former President Obama and endorsed by the United Nations for their sustainability efforts. It’s also significant; the brand’s unique look and focus ran a cool breeze through the usual ‘glitz and glam’ associated with fashion week. Headed by creative directors Moira Te Whata and Lucinda Le Heron, the collection signals Untouched World’s step towards a new creative future, enforced by its rich heritage. 

Creative collaborators Moira and Lucinda achieve the seemingly impossible, transporting the audience from the stark, industrial Shed 10 to a place that transcends both space and time; an Untouched World. Nature’s reclamation of space and ability to ‘breathe life into urban landscapes’, reportedly a key influence on the collection, was palpable, whether through the sunlight which appeared to fill the space, or the harakeke bundles dotted around the staging. A juxtaposition in its entirety, of old and new, foreign and local, the show was a culmination of influences from around the world. The collection’s distinctive ‘rugged’, wild feel was both native and acquired, as we found ourselves simultaneously in Aotearoa, the ‘Wild West’ and the unforgiving plains of the English countryside. The marriage of all three, set to Māori waiata and Kate Bush’s ‘Cloudbusting’ (just the kind of ethereal soundtrack necessary for the occasion), can only be described as beautiful. Neckerchiefs, riding boots and straw hats left no doubt; these pieces were intended to be worn and loved. What connected them was the roughness of nature, the ‘wild’. I found myself surprisingly on the nose with my hurried choice of footwear (the humble cowboy boot), as similar pairs strode down the runway. 

These foreign aspects may have alienated us, had they not been complemented by a strong return to home. While the collections’ influences may have been foreign-born, the textiles used to realise them were undeniably local. Rather than attempting to hide the origin of their pieces and textiles, Untouched World lifts the curtain and takes us from cultivation to final product. Natural influences, both literally and metaphorically, wove together: straw hats, flax belts, and (my personal favourite) bone hairpieces. The origin of these textiles was undeniable as harakeke plants featured on the staging, used to create the linen on the models.

Māori values also underpin the brand, as they herald the kite as the ultimate symbol of a harmonious relationship between humans and nature - the outcome of an art involving natural materials and human skills. This philosophy culminates in the finale piece, the Matatua half zip, which features a kōwhaiwhai-inspired pattern, as well as the brand’s signature ‘Kite zipper pull’. Featured also was a combination of both new and old textiles: straw, linen, merino, as well as Aotearoa’s first use of ‘Brewed Protein’ by Spiber, ‘an innovative textile made from sugarcane’, with the feel of cashmere, silk or wool. This juxtaposition of old and new is reflective of a brand whose vision is to “look to the past in order to move forward”. 

Tangible, also, though perhaps heightened by the excitement of being a first-time guest, was the sense of pride both the designers and models seemed to feel in the collection (woven together, if you will). It’s reinforced by the brand’s grounded, ‘roots up’ feel: their very own new lead designer, Moira Te Whata, began her career as a machinist in 2009. It’s also reflective of NZFW’s newfound focus on accessibility; opening up the fashion world to ‘outsiders’ (tickets were notably available for purchase by the general public for the first time). The show invited us into an exciting new world that seamlessly blends heritage and innovation. It set a standard for the renewed spirit of New Zealand Fashion Week, embodying pride, heritage, and a return to its roots. Not flashy or showy, it didn’t demand our attention; instead, it laid itself bare and allowed us along on the journey. Untouched World may have been making its debut on stage, but it proved itself assured, grounded, and ready to step into the future. The final result was a testament to its roots; proof of the timelessness of past and future when ‘Woven Together by Nature’. 

As always, a huge thank you to both Craccum and Untouched World for the opportunity to see such an incredible show!